Musings from Israel

My last day in Israel today. I have been woefully remiss in updating my blog, but perhaps you'll forgive my fragmented thoughts.

Jerusalem was so much more than I expected. The city is architecturally fascinating, with the low modern brick buildings interspersed with an occasional building that dates back to who knows when. The city itself is busy, busy, busy- except on Shabbat when it folds into itself like origami. Then, the stillness is absolute. Even the elevator runs in a continual loop, stopping at every floor to spare riders the work of having to push the button. When Shabbat ends, however, it fills with energy- life fairly exploding from the streets which were silent only moments before. It's like an impromptu party to which no one was invited, but everyone spontaneously arrives at the same time anyway.

Old Jerusalem is a wonderful, mysterious, chaotic maze. Cobblestone streets and alleys filled with people, cars, and vendors vocally celebrating the wares they sell. The shop roofs nearly meet overhead, blocking the sun and adding to the sense of drama...and claustrophobia. Toys, scarves, jewelry, bras, carvings, trinkets, and nearly everything else are carefully arranged to attract the attention of passersby. The historical significance of the sites there is truly too big for me to comprehend just yet. I need some time and space to mull it over- the Wailing Wall, King Herod's castle, the site of the Last Supper, King David's tomb. Walking through the same streets as those ancient heroes and villains it is impossible not to feel the weight of human history.

That weight continues south toward the Dead Sea. The Beaudoin communities lining the highway are a visible reminder that for some, life hasn't changed much in the past two thousand years or so. Masada rises out of the landscape of the Judean desert- its plateau an easy clue that it is not simply another mountain. The outline of the Roman siege walls are still visible from the roof, and the mind turns toward what those last hours of life must have been for the thousand Jews seeking refuge there- ultimately choosing death over capture and enslavement. Then, it was a place of choiceless choices and death. Now it holds a gift shop and cable cars. The juxtaposition of modern life versus ancient history.

The Dead Sea area holds all the trappings of resort life. The McDonald's arches visible from the shore seem at odds with the ancient lands- as it absolutely is. The water itself so buoyant it is impossible to sink- the salt leaving an oily sheen on the surface of the water and a sharp sting on any small cuts on the skin. The site of the Dead Sea Scrolls now holding giggling tourists, beach umbrellas, and cocktails.

More than anything else, the city of Jerusalem and the country of Israel are profound reminders of the absolute determination of life to continue to move forward and march on. Its more current history as a safe harbor for persecuted Jews only continues the tradition of the lands on which people have lived full, bountiful lives of meaning and hope. I am profoundly grateful for my opportunity to enjoy its history and people- however briefly.